What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com
What WorksSkin
Search/
INGREDIENT · 16 / 28FILED · 15 APR 2026

Ingredient · Botanical · Centella · 'Cica'

P. 16 · BRIEF

Centella asiatica.

The 'cica' in K-beauty — and its honest evidence floor.

A pentacyclic-triterpenoid-rich botanical with a long pharmacy history and a respectable, mid-sized evidence base for soothing, post-procedure recovery, and mild anti-inflammatory support. Often oversold; rarely useless.

— § 01

What centella actually is.

Centella asiatica — also called gotu kola, 'cica' in cosmetic shorthand — is a swamp-growing herb used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for centuries. The cosmetic fraction that matters is TECA (titrated extract of centella asiatica): a standardised mixture of asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and madecassoside. Generic 'centella extract' on a label without standardisation is a gamble; standardised TECA at known concentrations is where the real data lives.

⁂

— § 02

Mechanism, plainly.

On collagen

Asiaticoside upregulates type I collagen synthesis and modulates fibroblast activity. Slow but measurable.

On inflammation

Madecassoside dampens NF-κB signalling and reduces oxidative stress markers.

On wound healing

Long pharmacy history in burns and surgical wound care; modern RCTs replicate.

⁂

— § 03

The evidence.

Post-procedure recovery
RCTs vs vehicle

Reduces erythema and downtime after laser, peels, and microneedling. The strongest cosmetic claim.

72%
Sensitive / reactive skin
Cohort

Soothing benefit replicated across multiple Asian-population studies.

64%
Stretch marks / scars
Mixed RCTs

Real but modest. Useful adjunct to silicone gel, not a primary tool.

52%
Anti-aging (direct)
Limited

Some collagen signal; not a substitute for a retinoid.

40%
⁂

— § 04

Concentration & vehicle.

Generic extract
Cosmetic only

Avoid as the lone active. Useful as supportive ingredient.

Standardised TECA
Therapeutic

Look for asiaticoside / madecassoside listed by name and percentage.

Madecassoside 0.1%
Targeted

Most-studied isolated fraction. Post-procedure default.

⁂
⁂

— § 07

On our shelf.

La Roche-PosayTier A
Cicaplast Baume B5

Reference post-procedure cream. Madecassoside + panthenol + zinc + shea.

88⁄100Read review →
Dr.Jart+Tier B
Cicapair Tiger Grass Cream

Korean original. Heavier vehicle, real TECA dose.

78⁄100Not yet reviewed
PuritoTier B
Centella Green Level Buffet Serum

Multi-fraction extract, thin serum format. Honest at the price.

76⁄100Not yet reviewed
SkinCeuticalsTier A
Phyto Corrective Gel

Centella + thyme + cucumber. Soothing across redness types.

84⁄100Not yet reviewed
⁂

— § 08

Frequently asked.

Cica or niacinamide for redness?

Both, often together. Niacinamide for sebum-driven flushing and barrier work, cica for post-inflammatory and post-procedure redness. Different mechanisms, complementary results.

Will it actually heal a scar?

It supports the healing environment. Combine with silicone gel for hypertrophic scars. Centella alone is supportive, not curative.

Is generic centella extract a waste?

Often. Without standardisation you have no idea how much active triterpenoid you are getting. Look for named fractions on the label.

Can I use it long-term?

Yes. Cica is one of the few actives where indefinite use is the intended pattern.

⁂
⁂

— Mentioned by

Also paired with.

Other briefs that name-check Centella asiatica as a daily partner. These pairings sit outside the curated grid above — typically because that hub list is reserved for the closest four picks.

⁂
⁂

Continue Reading

Read next.

Similar Ingredient

Bakuchiol

Graded Tier B. Often called "plant retinol." It is not a retinoid, not pharmacologically relate...

Read brief →