What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com

Concern · Sensitive & Barrier · Rosacea

P. 16 · GUIDE

Rosacea.

Vascular reactivity, not inflammation alone. Trigger-led.

Persistent central-face redness, visible vessels, easy flushing, sometimes papules and pustules. The most-misdiagnosed condition we see — frequently treated with the same anti-acne stack that makes it worse. The fix is trigger management plus the right anti-inflammatory, not a stronger BHA.

— § 01

The triggers worth tracking.

Sun & UVA

The single largest trigger. Daily SPF non-negotiable.

85%
Heat & spice

Hot food, hot showers, hot yoga, summer cooking. The Indian kitchen is rosacea-hostile.

62%
Alcohol

Particularly red wine and dark spirits. Vasoactive sulphites.

70%
Topical irritants

Fragrance, alcohol denat., AHAs, retinoids — at the wrong dose.

55%

— § 02

Ingredients that actually work.

Tier
Molecule
Role
Evidence
Tier A
Azelaic acid 15% (Rx)
Anti-inflammatory · papulopustular
First-line, multiple RCTs
Tier A
Metronidazole 0.75%
Anti-inflammatory · Rx
Reference Rx for decades
Tier A
Ivermectin 1% (Rx)
Anti-Demodex · Rx
Strong RCT data, faster onset than azelaic
Tier A
Niacinamide 4–5%
Erythema · barrier
Replicated reduction in flushing
Tier B
Centella / madecassoside
Calming
Open-label & small RCTs · symptomatic
Tier B
Brimonidine 0.33% (Rx)
Vasoconstrictor — short-term
Rebound flushing common; reserve for events

— § 04

On our shelf.

GaldermaTier A
Finacea Foam 15% (Rx)

Reference azelaic for papular rosacea. Foam vehicle excels.

90⁄100Not yet reviewed
La Roche-PosayTier A
Toleriane Sensitive Riche

Fragrance-free, neurosensitive-tested. Minimalist barrier cream.

84⁄100Not yet reviewed
AvèneTier B
Antirougeurs DAY

Ruscus extract + thermal water. Mild redness reduction over 4 weeks.

76⁄100Not yet reviewed
Skin1004Tier A
Madagascar Centella Ampoule

Cleanest centella formula at honest price. Soothes flares.

82⁄100Not yet reviewed