Archive · Trend Watch
Every fortnight, three trends.
Independent verdicts on the trends, claims, and product launches our inboxes filled up with. Holds up, partly true, misleading, skip — graded against the literature, not the brand deck.
- № 01527 June 2026
Hypochlorous acid spray, at-home exosomes, and the emergence of ectoin
Three emerging trends that dominated our feed in June. One holds up; two need a reality check.
Signed — Dr. Paul + Dr. Sundeep
- № 01420 April 2026
Beef tallow, the LED mask reckoning, and a sunscreen recall in Korea
Three trends that filled our inbox in March. Two don't survive a closer look.
Signed — Dr. Paul + Dr. Sundeep
- № 01306 April 2026
Snail mucin, the rise of polyglutamic acid, and 'skin cycling' redux
When a TikTok regimen meets a peer-reviewed paper. Neither wins outright.
Signed — Dr. Paul
- № 01223 March 2026
The collagen drink question, finally settled
A meta-analysis dropped. We read all 19 trials. Here is what they actually say.
Signed — Dr. Sundeep
- № 01109 March 2026
Bakuchiol vs retinol, take three. New data from Seoul.
Twelve-week split-face trial, 84 participants. The result is more interesting than the headline.
Signed — Dr. Paul
- № 01023 February 2026
Mineral sunscreens are catching up. Slowly.
We tested four new SPF 50 mineral formulations against the chemical category leader.
Signed — Dr. Sundeep
- № 00909 February 2026
Methylene blue, NMN, and the longevity-skincare overlap
Three supplements crossed over from the longevity world into our inbox. One of them is interesting.
Signed — Dr. Paul + Dr. Sundeep
- № 00826 January 2026
The retinal vs retinol debate, again
A reader asked us to settle it. We read 31 studies. The answer depends on which question you mean.
Signed — Dr. Paul
- № 00712 January 2026
Beef-fat creams, the 2026 edition
We did not expect to write about tallow twice. Here we are.
Signed — Dr. Paul
- № 00629 December 2025
Year-end: the five things that earned a Tier-A grade in 2025
And the three things that lost theirs.
Signed — Dr. Paul + Dr. Sundeep
- № 00515 December 2025
Microneedling at home: a careful no
Two new derma-roller brands sent us samples. We sent them back.
Signed — Dr. Sundeep
- № 00401 December 2025
Mandelic acid is having a moment. We agree, with footnotes.
The case for mandelic in skin of colour is stronger than the case for glycolic. Here is the evidence.
Signed — Dr. Paul
- № 00317 November 2025
The peptide gold rush, sorted
Copper peptides, GHK, Matrixyl, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. Which ones earned their badge.
Signed — Dr. Paul
- № 00203 November 2025
Slugging, vaseline, and the petrolatum question
TikTok rediscovered occlusion. We re-read the dermatology literature so you don't have to.
Signed — Dr. Sundeep
- № 00120 October 2025
The launch issue: what we believe in, what we don't
A founding manifesto disguised as a verdict column. Three trends, no advertisers.
Signed — Dr. Paul + Dr. Sundeep