What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com
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Concern · Sensitive & Barrier · Compromised barrier

P. 19 · GUIDE

Compromised barrier.

Over-exfoliated skin needs the boring stack for 8 weeks.

The condition produced by skincare itself, more often than by anything else. Six weeks of strict, boring repair will resolve almost every case — but the temptation to "add one active" too early is the reason most people cycle through the same problem twice a year.

— § 01

The triggers worth tracking.

Stinging on water alone

The cardinal sign. Means the stratum corneum is no longer intact.

92%
Tightness within minutes

TEWL has spiked. Hydration evaporates faster than it can be replaced.

85%
Sudden product intolerance

Things that worked last month now sting. Your barrier is the variable.

78%
Visible flaking / micropeel

Stratum corneum desquamation is disorganised. Often confused for 'glow'.

65%
⁂

— § 02

Ingredients that actually work.

Tier
Molecule
Role
Evidence
Tier A
Ceramides 3 + 1 + 6-II
Lipid replacement
Biomimetic ratios. Multi-vesicular emulsion preferred.
Tier A
Cholesterol
Lipid replacement
Rebuilds the stratum-corneum bilayer alongside ceramides.
Tier A
Free fatty acids
Lipid replacement
Linoleic acid; supports the third pillar of the bilayer.
Tier A
Panthenol 5%
Hydration · soothing
Pro-vitamin B5. Reduces TEWL within 48 hours.
Tier A
Niacinamide 4–5%
Ceramide upregulation
Replicated upregulation of endogenous ceramide synthesis.
Tier B
Centella asiatica
Anti-inflammatory
Symptomatic relief; modest barrier endpoints.
Tier A
Petrolatum
Occlusive
Reduces TEWL by ~99%. The reference occlusive.
⁂

— § 03

The protocol.

  1. Phase 01 · Week 1–2

    Strip back

    Cleanser + ceramide moisturiser + SPF only. No actives, no acids, no retinoids, no fragrance.

  2. Phase 02 · Week 3–4

    Add panthenol

    Centella or panthenol serum AM + PM. Continue zero-active routine.

  3. Phase 03 · Week 5–6

    First active

    Niacinamide 4–5% in moisturiser only. Watch for sting; hold if any.

  4. Phase 04 · Week 7+

    Slow re-introduction

    Twice-weekly retinoid OR azelaic — never both, never more than twice a week to start.