What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com

Routine · AM · Pigment-prone

P. 04 · ROUTINE

Four steps. Twelve minutes.

Cleanse, antioxidant, pigment-blocker, SPF. The single most-recommended morning protocol on the site.

— § 01

The steps.

  1. 01
    On waking

    Cleanse

    Low-foam, low-pH cleanser

    Skip the heavy foaming wash in the morning. A low-pH gel preserves the acid mantle that built up overnight and prevents the early-AM barrier dip we see in pigment-prone skin.

    Surfactants
  2. 02
    After patting dry

    Antioxidant serum

    L-ascorbic acid 10–15% (or alternative)

    Vitamin C provides daytime free-radical defence and amplifies SPF efficacy. For pigment-prone skin, this is the layer that does the slow work no SPF alone can.

    SkinCeuticalsTier A
    C E Ferulic

    Reference

    The OrdinaryTier B
    Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%

    Sensitive alternative

    L-ascorbic acid10–15%
  3. 03
    Once C is dry

    Pigment-targeted treatment

    Tranexamic acid + niacinamide

    On melasma and stubborn PIH, the daytime pigment-blocker layer is what closes the gap retinoid nights cannot. Tranexamic acid + niacinamide is the most evidence-aligned combination available OTC in India.

    MinimalistTier A
    Tranexamic 03%

    Default

    The OrdinaryTier B
    Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA

    Pregnancy alt.

    Tranexamic acid3%
  4. 04
    Always last

    Sun protection

    Broad-spectrum, high UVA-PF SPF 50+

    Long-UVA is what drives pigment relapse. Use the highest UVA-PF fluid you can afford, two finger-lengths to the face, every day, indoors and out.

    Mexoryl 400 + TinosorbUVA-PF 46