What Works Skin — Independent · Evidence-First · Ad-FreeIssue 014 · 20 April 2026 · Next: 04 Maywhatworksskin.com

Product · Retinoid · Prescription only

P. 14 · REVIEW

Generic (Rx)

Tretinoin 0.025% / 0.05% Cream.

The reference topical retinoid. The most-evidenced active in dermatology. Costs less than a single influencer serum and outperforms all of them. The only barrier between most patients and visible improvement is whether they can adhere to the six-week retinisation period.

— § 01

The scorecard.

Formulation integrity
Standardised pharma-grade. Vehicle differs by brand; cream beats gel for most Indian skin.
23⁄25
Evidence per claim
The most-evidenced topical in dermatology. Pigment, acne, photoaging, all replicated.
25⁄25
Tolerability
Predictable retinisation: weeks 2–6 of redness, peeling. Buffering and slow ramp resolve.
16⁄25
Value
₹ 250 / 30 g. Cheapest serious actives in skincare.
22⁄25

— § 02

The ingredients.

Tier
Ingredient
Role
Note
Tretinoin 0.025%
Stearic acid
Isopropyl myristate
Polyoxyl 40 stearate
BHT

— § 05

Frequently asked.

Tretinoin vs adapalene vs retinol?

Tretinoin is the strongest OTC-class retinoid (in India, prescription-only). Adapalene is gentler and OTC; retinol is the weakest, requiring conversion in skin. Match strength to tolerance and goals: severe acne or visible photoaging → tretinoin. Mild acne → adapalene. Maintenance / pre-emptive use → retinol.

Why did my acne get worse first?

The 'tretinoin purge' is real for the first 4–6 weeks. Tretinoin accelerates microcomedone-to-pustule transit — meaning lesions that would have surfaced over months instead surface in weeks. Push through; patients who quit at week 4 miss the inflection. If the purge persists past 8 weeks, see a derm.

Can I use it with vitamin C?

Yes, but split AM (vitamin C) and PM (tretinoin). Direct layering raises stability and tolerability concerns without practical benefit.

Pregnancy?

No. Topical tretinoin is contraindicated in pregnancy and while trying to conceive. Switch to azelaic acid or bakuchiol.