Concern · Anti-aging · Tone & texture

P. 30 · GUIDE

Surface roughness,
and how to actually fix it.

Vitamin C, AHAs, retinoids. The boring stack works.

The catch-all category. Pore visibility, surface dullness, fine textural unevenness that the camera reads as 'tired.' Built around exfoliation discipline, retinoid layering, and rejecting the urge to add another acid every fortnight.

— § 01

The triggers worth tracking.

Pore visibility on T-zone in flat lighting

Often less about pore size than about peri-pore congestion and oxidation. Treat the contents, not the diameter.

72%

Surface roughness on cheeks (felt, not seen)

Stratum corneum disorganisation. Responds to gentle, regular keratolytic exfoliation.

68%

Light reflects unevenly across cheek

The 'glow' problem. Improvement here usually drives the perceived skincare-is-working signal.

78%

Diffuse mild redness through transitions

Vascular reactivity that often resolves once the routine simplifies. Sometimes signals barrier compromise.

54%

⁂

— § 02

Ingredients that actually work.

Tier

Molecule

Role

Evidence

Glycolic 8–10% leave-on

AHA exfoliation

Twice-weekly, alternated with retinoid. Reference for tone and texture across 12 weeks.

Larger molecule, slower penetration. Better for sensitive skin.

AHA + acne adjacent

Best AHA for melanin-rich and reactive skin. Slower endpoints, fewer flares.

Adapalene / tretinoin

Pore quality and tone respond at 12 weeks. The most under-prescribed step in this category.

Niacinamide 4–10%

Daily; useful supporting active. Pairs cleanly with retinoid and AHA.

Tier A

Microneedling (clinic)

Procedural texture

Single best intervention for textural endpoints over 4–6 sessions.

⁂

— § 03

The protocol.

Phase 01 · Week 1–4
Simplify
Cleanser, niacinamide moisturiser, SPF. Stop physical scrubs and stacked acids.
Phase 02 · Week 4–8
Add retinoid
Adapalene 0.1% PM, alternate nights. The boring foundation under all texture work.
Phase 03 · Week 8+
Layer AHA
Glycolic 8% leave-on twice a week, on non-retinoid nights. Photograph at week 0 and week 16.

Bottom line

Pick one AHA, one retinoid, and one niacinamide. Stick with them for 16 weeks. Stacking five exfoliants does not exfoliate five times harder; it just compromises the barrier.